Their pelleted Equitrol II and Simplifly with Larvastop use an ingredient called diflubenzuron to inhibit fly growth. Ninety percent of the fly population is in the pre-adult stages, reports Farnam, so by killing fly larvae, you stop flies at the source. It costs roughly $34 for two pounds that will last 64 days. The product is proven safe for horses, but consult your veterinarian to determine the ideal treatment program for your location. You may still need to repel or kill flies that migrate from untreated areas, but the company claims you’ll have a dramatic decrease in your fly population. Within two weeks of feeding Solitude IGR, you should see fly populations decline noticeably, and after four to six weeks, the fly population should be controlled in full. Within the alfalfa-based pellet is an ingredient called cryomazine that will be excreted in your horse’s manure, where it prevents the developing flies from producing chitin (the contents of the hard outer shell of an insect’s body). You can stop flies right where they start this spring by top-dressing a half-ounce of Solitude IGR on your horse’s grain daily. There’s no way we can include all the products on the market, but here are some ideas for fly control and how to get your hands on it:Īdvantages: Pesticide-free and requires no messy clean up or administration.ĭisadvantages: Doesn’t control adult fly population. Also, haul off all roadkill or dead animals like squirrels, rabbits and cats to eliminate prime fly breeding grounds, and knock down any areas of long weeds where flies can rest and hide from temperature fluctuations. Similarly, if you clean your stalls at least every seven days, you’ll be getting rid of fly pupae that haven’t quite had time to hatch. This works because if you dry out the excrement within five days, fly pupae can’t hatch. If you don’t transport manure to a big pile, spread it in the pasture thinly with a harrow. By lining your trash cans with plastic and using tight lids, regularly hauling manure out of horse pens and disposing of rotting hay bales, loose straw and garbage, you’re eliminating the odors that attract breeding flies.Īnd compost piles are not the ripe breeding grounds you might imagine because they generate heat-especially if you cover the pile with plastic. In the meantime, there are several rules of thumb to brush up on that, if you follow them, will help manage fly reproduction all on their own.įor starters, clean, clean, clean. Then, to eliminate the adults buzzing around, a plethora of methods are available, many of which are listed below. The most effective way to prevent fly eggs from turning into flies is to use a feed-through fly-control supplement or to buy and distribute natural fly parasites before the weather turns warm. A two-tiered approach that consists of destroying fly eggs and cocoons-and managing the adult population-will be your best strategy. To start with, here’s some fly trivia for you as we head into pest season: it takes eight days for fly eggs to produce adult flies, and each adult lives for 21 days, with females able to lay some 900 eggs. You will receive a new shipment of Fly Predators roughly once a month through the fly season for your zip code for a cost of about $19.95 a month +tax (dependent on your personal needs).With new and improved traps, effective sprays and handy little fly eaters on the market, there’s no reason for your horses to suffer from swarms of flies this year-or their tendency to pass along pigeon fever, West Nile virus and Equine Infectious Anemia. If you decide to give them a try, you will be asked your zip code, how many animals you have and what kind - and a specialized program will be put together for you. I am happy to report that now, several weeks later, the number of flies we see around the coop and barn are negligible. I even asked my husband who I hadn't told I had put out the Fly Predators if he noticed fewer flies around the horses and he said yes without hesitation. Within a week or so, there were noticeably fewer flies. We had some of those sticky fly strips up, so I counted on those to continue to do their job until the Fly Predators could go to work. The Fly Predators don't kill existing flies they prevent future flies, so Spalding Labs does recommend using some Fly Traps in conjunction with the Predators if you are already seeing adult flies.
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